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Controlling music on your computer remotely

July 31st, 2010 Brendan 1 comment

Today I’ve been having a play with Apple’s Remote app on my iphone and I thought I’d share the experience as it’s pretty cool. One of the downsides of computer audio vs a network player type solution has always been the remote control. Today in 5 minutes flat I was simultaneasly controlling my wifes mac book pro running iTunes and my pc running Mediamonkey from the same application on my iPhone. Lost? let me explain.

Step 1: Get a computer – It doesn’t really matter what sort of computer

Step 2: Install some software – Most people using macs will be using iTunes, but I’m more of a PC guy myself so I use Mediamonkey which I find fantastic for managing my digital library of music.

Step 2b (for the PC users): Download the Monkeytunes plugin for Mediamonkey – 30 seconds and you’ll be done.

Step 3: Get an iPhone/iPod Touch/iPad – Go to the app store and get Apple’s Remote App – (On the Monkeytunes website there is info for Android users)

Step 4: Fire up the app and select your computer

Step 5: Enter the passcode on your computer

Step 6: Find a song you love and listen, pause, skip tracks, browse artists etc…

It really is that easy, now head on over to a place like HDtracks.com and start listening to high quality digital music.

While I’m here, I’ll give a little plug for the Cambridge Audio DAC Magic, what this little beast does is connects directly to your computer via USB, then does the digital to analog conversion external from your computer providing you with a high end audiophile sound ready for your amplifier’s inputs.

If you have ditched CD’s then I can’t recommend investing in a decent DAC enough, even compressed MP3′s sound miles better through a proper DAC.

That’s all for today, hope that helps someone out there who wants to control their computer from their pocket with minimum fuss.

If you want more info on computer based systems, check out Computeraudiophile.com there’s a ton of info there too.

Brendan

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Affordable Ways to Enhance the Sound of Your iPod and iTunes… by Michael Mercer

May 19th, 2010 Brendan 1 comment

Mike and I have been talking via Twitter for a few weeks now,  thanks to Gary Morrision (of Plinius fame) and we have mainly been talking about how we can, as Mike puts it, “spread
our audible disease to the masses”.

For a while now I’ve been wanting to write something on the topic of getting the most from your digital music collection (and specifically talk about the Wadia range of iPod products) so when I came across an article Mike wrote I thought, well, I’ll be honest, it’s better than what I would have written! So anyway I asked Mike if I could re post it here and he not only agreed, but sent me the unedited version of the Wadia bit… Mike you rock, keep up the great work and you’re welcome here anytime!

- Brendan

Mike in his happy place

As a music addict I constantly download and stream tunes I cannot get in physical formats. As a HiFi enthusiast I also make every effort to ensure the music I am listening to sounds the best it possibly can—though it can be frustrating trying to coax quality sound from digital music devices. But if you know what you’re doing, it is possible to enhance the sonic integrity of your iTunes, iPhone, and iPod-based music systems at a reasonable price.

So how to do it? One of the answers lies in an essential part of any digital playback system, a component the high end audio community has been focused on improving for many years: the DAC (the digital-to-analog converter). Every digital player, whether it be a simple CD deck or a Blu Ray unit, has an internal DAC. We are analog beings and process auditory information in analog. No matter how many bits your digital system offers, the resolution, the sample rate, the bit rate; all the information needs to be converted back to analog in order to hear it. This is where some systems shine and others falter.

The biggest sonic obstacle lying in your digital path to better sound is your computer’s internal DAC. If you’re using the headphone jack/output (as most people are) to drive your desktop speakers or your stereo system you are relying on the computer’s internal DAC for the digital to analog processing which more often than not compromises sound quality.

Here I’ll discuss two different devices to improve your computer’s sonic performance, available at both your local HiFi dealer (yes, they do still exist) and various HiFi websites. Some will even allow you to demo the unit before making a final decision.

The Wadia 170i transport

The Wadia 170i Transport

The Wadia 170i Transport is an iPod dock (not a DAC actually), but it is no ordinary dock.  Most consumer units may allow for the physical docking of your iPod and even give you access to the screen’s menus via your flat panel and other neat features, but they do nothing with regard to the digital processing of musical information.  Most of the docks offered simply pull the analog signal from the iPod (thus relying, again, on an inferior DAC, this time in the iPod itself).  Wadia was the first to build a component that not only accesses the digital datastream of the iPod, but actually pulls that datastream out through its COAX output (this cable looks just like the standard RCA interconnects you typically use, but this one needs to be a dedicated digital cable for best results).

The Wadia is larger than other docks, but stylish.  At 8″ wide x 2.7″ high x 8.0″ deep, and weighing in at 4.6 lbs, this thing is hefty and just about half the size of your average component.  It supports most iPods, and comes with multiple plastic inserts to accommodate different models.  It does not support the iPhone, but Wadia is about a month away (last I checked) (It’s available now in NZ – Brendan) from introducing their new 171i Transport which will provide iPhone support.  Needless to say they are on their game (which is also why the company has a stellar reputation for performance in audiophile circles).

The main sonic advantage of this component is it allows the user to incorporate a better external DAC.   If you happen to own a surround sound receiver for example (that does Dolby Digital EX and DTS for movies) then you probably have a digital COAX input (how you would normally get your multi-channel sound) then you can use it in conjunction with the Wadia.  This input leads to your receivers internal DAC, which, if it’s of decent quality, will sound far better than using the headphone output of the iPod.  Even if you don’t have a surround sound receiver, many new stereo receivers have digital inputs as well, though most of the receivers sold today are fully surround sound equipped (so, you’re covered).

The back end of the 170i transport

When we first got the Wadia iTransport I was a little skeptical as to how much better the sound could be through my iPod.  The iPod wasn’t, after all, for me, something that I relied on for good sound.  It was merely the digital carrying case for all the music I wanted to listen to on the go.  Does this sound familiar?  I was stunned to hear just how much better some of my compressed files sounded actually!  Mostly live DJ mixes, usually around 192k mp3s, sounded more dynamic and had far more bottom end than I even thought possible for an mp3 file (some music seems to lend itself better to certain forms of compression – I find anyway).  The uncompressed files offered another level of musical reference entirely.  The atmospheric sounds of Radiohead’s Kid A sounded just as lush and textural as they did when I played the production CD (and my CD playback system is no slouch).  However, as the old adage goes; crap in, crap out.  If the files you are playing sound like shite to begin with, they’re not going to get any better with the Wadia, but if the file is decent you will be able to hear far deeper into the music than ever before.  Do uncompressed (or even less compressed, such as AAC files) take up more space in your hard-drive?  Of course they do, but everything is about compromise; everything.  Me; I’d rather spend a little more money on more hard drive space – and they are far less expensive now than they were even two years ago.

The bottom line here: The Wadia 170 iTransport costs a little less than an iPhone, so doesn’t it seem worth it if you can turn your iPod into a far better sounding piece of hardware?  Again; the source itself is always the most important thing, but if you fill your iPod (or just use a fair portion of its memory) with decent sounding music the Wadia will help you unlock its sonic potential; potential most people don’t even know exists (or even care about).  I can’t live without mine, and that is perhaps the best thing I can say about it.  By the way:  It also has video outputs, so you can download movies off iTunes onto your iPod, and then dock it to the Wadia, giving you access to that movie on a bigger screen.

—————

You can continue reading the rest of Mike’s article over at The Daily Swarm

For more info on the Wadia range of products checkout:

Wadia 170i Transport $749

Wadia 171i Transport $899 (iPhone Supported model)

Wadia 151 PowerDAC Mini Amplifier $1999 – Matches above Transports, stunning unit.

Follow Mike on Twitter and also check out Positive-Feedback where Mike writes…

Thanks to Mike again for this great post, so are you ready to go digital?

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More on Amplifier Power & Loudness

June 13th, 2009 Tiens 1 comment

I want to double my listening level so I need an amp of double my amp’s power, right?

Wrong, you are in for a disappointment when you upgrade your 100w amp to a 200w amp… you will only hear a small increase in output level!  You need about 10x the power to double the sound level, so in fact you need a 1000w amp! And 1000w amps are unheard off in the domestic market! Luckily these sort of sound levels are seldom important for quality music listening but it can be important if you want the ‘real’ cinema experience in your dedicated Home Theatre (HT) room.

The problem is the relationship between POWER and SOUND OUTPUT LEVEL (loudness) is not linear that means if you double the power you will not get double the loudness.

Power is measured in watts (a unit of energy) and Loudness is measured in decibels (dB).  A “deci”-”bel” means  1/10  of a bel (a unit of  sound  named after the inventor of the telephone Graham Bell). The human ear can hear an amazing wide range of sound levels so wide that in fact you have to describe it in terms of a logarithmic scale. On this scale 0dB means complete silence and 140 dB means the threshold of ear pain.  For instance a whisper is about 20db where background noise in an office is about 60db, a full orchestra can go up to 100 db and a live rock concert up to 120dB. A jet engine flying over your head is about 140dB. The human ear can pick up changes of about 1dB and an increase of about 10dB is about twice as loud. So it’s interesting to note that a 200w amp can only produce about 3dB more loudness than a 100w amp and that is not much more than the 1dB possible difference detectable by your ears. So its not a surprise that you hardly hear much more sound output when you change your 100w amp for a 200w amp!! ..so if your local sales person tells you this 120w amp will go much louder than your existing 100w amp, ignore that you will hardly hear any difference.

It is interesting to note that this 3dB increase is only a drop in the ocean compared to the 0 dB to 120db you can get at a live rock concert this is why it is basically impossible to reproduce the “live sound experience” in your HT room!

So what should I do if I need more sound output level and cannot afford a 1000w amp?

Fortunately there are two other options here that you can consider:

1. You can go for 4 ohm speakers but make sure your amp can handle this.  You roughly need twice the power to drive an 8 ohm speaker to the same sound level as a 4 ohm speaker of the same sensitivity.  So with a 100w amp you will get the same sound level output from a 4 ohm speaker as a 200w amp out of a 8 ohm speaker.

2. The second option is to go for more sensitive speakers. The sensitivity of normal speakers today varies between 86 db and 92 db (horn loaded speakers can typically go to 100 db or more).  It’s generally the norm that for each 3 db increase in sound level output you have to double the amp’s power.  Say your amp is 100 w and your speaker’s sensitivity is 87 db.  If you change the speakers to 90db sensitive speakers (not expensive to get) you will get the same output level as a 200w (very expensive) amp into your old 87db speakers. 200w amps are basically non existing in the HT market except at the very high-end of $10000!  So it’s a huge cost saving by going for the 90db sensitive speakers.

So the moral of the story is:  if you are looking for HT gear for loud output levels look at a HT receiver than can drive 4 ohms speakers and go for speakers of high sensitivity of at least 90 db. Luckily these come only at a small premium in price. Avoid cheap speakers as they are generally not of high sensitivity and cheap amps cannot drive 4 ohms speakers.

This is not the place to warn you about these models. Just scan the internet forums for these issues and you will be shocked to learn that most popular  brands you see in your local shops are just that… not suitable for  even the average HT setup. Sadly once you part with your money…their is no return. I have seen so many clients burning their fingers on these popular mass market products because they are “a bargain” and “look so good on paper”.  That is the reason why you will not see those Brands on our site. Spend a little bit more and you will be satisfied.

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Amplifier ratings, how many watts did you say?

June 11th, 2009 Tiens 1 comment

The Amplifier power ratings issue, that’s right, its an issue. Some manufacturers claim huge power ratings and are very misleading but here’s some info on how to read these ‘impressive’ ratings.

One of the first questions clients ask about an amp is “How many watts is it?”

Though power is one of the most important features of an amp (or receiver), an amp’s watts per channel is one of the industry’s most misleading specifications and it’s misused by many manufactures to make their amps look good on paper compared to the rest.… the more watts on paper the “better”.   Watch out for ratings into 4 or 6 ohms, at 1 kHz, at 1% distortion (or even 10%!!! like most “all in one” systems) or “per channel” or worst of all…a peak/max/pmpo output. (not rms)… this is why.

4 ohms vs 8 ohms?

Specified power ratings into 4 ohm speakers give the highest rating sometimes twice the 8 ohm rating. The problem is these amps can seldom drive these 4 ohm speakers.  The reason is that according to Ohm’s law (Volt = Current x Resistance) when the resistance goes down the current has to go up to balance Ohm’s equation. More current means more heat and that will trip the amp into protection mode very easily. Therefore it is very important to look for amps with current driven technology rather than voltage driven technology if your speakers are 4 ohm. 4 Ohms speakers are very popular nowadays because they give greater sound output levels for the same amount of power. This is important for home theatre where sound levels are generally above normal listening levels for music. Worst of all, the amp has to cope not only with 2 speakers but 5 or even 7 speakers which puts a lot of strain on an amp’s power supply.

1 kHz vs 20hz-20khz?

Many brands only specify the power rating at 1 kHz.  Frequencies at and above this are the easiest to amplify and thus that will give the highest rating. Its much more demanding if it has to drive the whole frequency range from of 20 Hz to 20 kHz the normal range for audible sound. The most difficult is the low bass freq from 20 Hz to 150 Hz. This is why adding a powered sub to take care of these low frequencies takes a lot of stress from the amp leaving it to amplify the rest of the signals at greater efficiency.

1% vs 0.1% THD?

The amplifiers watts rating should state what level of distortion is being mesured at.  It is very easy for humans to hear 1 % THD (total harmonic distortion) but 0.1 % THD is inaudible so the power rating must be specified at this level of distortion or less… Typically an amp that can deliver 50w at 10% distortion will only give 10w at 0.1% distortion. A lot of car audio amplifiers are measured at 10% distortion and this practice now appears in some Home theatre amplifiers on the market today.

Per channel vs All Channels?

The highest wattage rating is achieved when the amplifier & power supply only has to drive one channel… many Brands state 100W “per channel” but watch out, that can mean only one channel is driven. When measured, most brands fell to 50% their power ratings if they drive 5 or more channels at the same time.

Peak power vs RMS?

The biggest misuse is some use “peak” power that is the power it can deliver for short burst of time… but that is a far cry from the real issues of how long the amp can sustain this power… the RMS (root mean square power) or simply continuous power is the only true measurement of any amps power.

So if your are looking for true power specs, don’t just believe the salesman “this amps 140W where as that amps only 60W”  look at the ONLY INDUSTRY ACCEPTED STANDARD ….which must state it in the following manner

“100W RMS into 8 ohms from 20Hz to 20KHz at no more than 0.1% THD with 2 (or more) channels driven”

Don’t trust any power rating if it is not specified in this manner…. they are trying to hide something.

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What is Good Sound and what do I Listen for?

June 4th, 2009 Tiens No comments

When listening to a Hi-fi system it can sometimes hard to pin point what is different about one system vs another, or why this one made you go “wow, that sounds amazing”. Here’s a list of a few things that might help you out.

Full Range Sound

Listen to the sound at both frequency ex­tremes. At low frequencies, listen for bass extension and bass weight and most of all tightness, watch out for “boom” that “hollow boxy” bass sound… that is bad bass that will get worse with higher volumes. Listen how the speakers handle power (to play loudly), clarity (to differentiate pitches), and control (tightness in the bass and to reproduce transients cleanly). Do they sound harsh? Breaking up and distorting? Then avoid them. At high frequencies listen for treble extension (the “air” surrounding Instruments), clarity (to capture delicate details), and smoothness (freedom from edginess and hardness). Watch out for a too bright top end… initially you think it is clarity but after a while it can irritate you so that you feel to turn the volume down… avoid those speakers!!! Good speakers have the notion that you want to turn it up a little bit all the time! Audition using familar music, whats important is listening to male vocals, many speakers lack midrange due to the manufacturer tuning them for bass. Does the male voice sound thin? Do electric guitars sound tinny? OR does the voice sound powerful backed up by full real sounding guitars?

If you are comparing sub/satellite systems, midrange is where you can easily differentiate an excellent system from an average one (I’m fighting the urge to mention some well known expensive systems here).

Transparency and Focus

Good speakers should reproduce subtle textural and transient details at all frequencies. Transparency is like “taking the blanket off” and focus is like tuning in binoculars. This makes the difference between speakers that sounds “nice” and those that sound breathtakingly “real”.

Imaging and Sound staging

That is painting the picture of the artist on the stage in front of you, in depth and width. Believe it or not, you don’t want speakers that call attention to themselves. Good speakers effectively disappear and create the illusion of musicians performing in real 3D spaces (ranging from recording studios to concert halls). When you are listening, does the music sound like its coming from the speakers OR floating in the air? Do each of the musicians sound like they are mushed together, or can you pick out where each instrument is playing? Imaging & staging is effected greatly by speaker placement, so try playing with the distance from the rear wall & the amount of toe in if the sound stage is flat.

Dynamics

Choose speakers that can play at satisfying volume levels in your listening room. The higher a speaker’s sensitivity rating the louder it will play for a given amount of power. How you define ‘satisfying volume levels” is up to you, but the key is to find a system that can handle loud musical passages grace­fully, yet offers enough finesse to catch the finer points of musical performances, sound effects, and dialog. Don’t just audition speakers at a loud volume, listen to them played softly, can you still hear weight in the bass? Does the midrange still come through or are you just left with treble?

Neutral Tonal Balance

This means that all frequencies from the highest highs to the lowest lows must be produced with equal emphasis (volume). A common mistake made by most buyers is that they buy a speaker that emphasizes (color) a particular frequency range like boom in the bass thinking it’s “more” bass, chestiness in the midrange thinking it has more presence or even worse a sharp top end, thinking its clearer. The best speakers offer accurate, neutral tonal balance. Remember in the long run, colouration’s prove fatiguing and neutrality rules.

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Speaker FAQ’s, Answered

May 12th, 2009 Tiens No comments

Q: WHAT SPEAKERS SHOULD I BUY FOR MUSIC AND/OR HOME THEATER?

A: That depends on a few factors:

First of all, you must decide if your main interest is music (HI FI) or home theatre (HT) or both. Your budget is the next important factor and then follows your taste of music and then the size of your room. Lastly, but sometimes very important, is the aesthetics factor, or as some called it the “WAF factor” (wife’s acceptance factor).   Speakers are a very personal choice. I can only guide you in this selection by drawing on my experience and knowledge of more than 30 years in this fascinating field. My experience over many years has taught me that in most cases the speakers that impress you initially are the ones that have “TISS” and “BOOM”,  they sound “different”… but the more you listen to them the more irritating they become especially at higher listening levels. Correct speakers do not always “stand out” when you hear them first … they do not draw attention to themselves… they sound smoother, warmer, not treble & bass focussed, but that is how it should be. Music is there to “relax” you. On the other hand Home theater (HT) are there to “excite” you…so speakers that sound bright and boomy are better for HT…thus you cannot get a speaker that can do both (music and HT) equally good!!

I still believe the best quality speakers are the ones that are designed and manufactured in their home country. The speaker brand must also have a “pedigree”, that is it must stood the test of time. That is why I prefer the following brands.

From USA:  MAGNEPAN (The world’s most famous panel speakers)

From CANADA: PARADIGM, the most awarded speakers in America.

From BRITIAN: PROAC hand built to perfection, some B & W models.

MJ ACOUSTICS some of the most accurate subwoofers in the world

From DENMARK: JAMO (Danish quality and style) most models, DYNAUDIO (quality)

From ITALY: SONUS FABER, OPERA & CHARIO beautifully made in real wood

The simple key to a good speaker is: “The bigger the better.” Also quality goes hand in hand with the weight of the speaker.  The basic physics of sound is to move air at different frequencies. You need different sizes of drivers for different frequencies and the more air you want to move (for good real bass)  the bigger the driver must be (or the more drivers you need ). To design a good small speaker that can match a good floor standing speaker is a very challenging engineering job and a hot topic nowadays. There are only a few of these special small speakers around that are exceptional, Jamo, Proac, Totem  etc are famous for their small speakers but they are generally very expensive. The new kid on the block, MJ Acoustics, has now come up with a small miracle mini monitor that took me by surprise and if you combine them with their exceptional accurate small subs you can match….no beat…floor-standers of 3 times their price!

NOTE: In choosing speakers for music and/or home-theater there are a few things to keep in mind. It is generally the believe that the worst sounding speakers are “IN WALL or IN CIELING” speakers because the designers does not have control on the wall structure and that can influence the sound the most. Next follows “ON WALL” speakers because of their flat size and light weight they tend to sound tinny. (There are a few exceptions to this, THX certified on wall speakers with very powerful subwoofers can be the best option for a dedicated HT room). The next best sound, especially for music, is “BOOK SHELF” speakers, however the best speakers are FLOORSTANDERS; it was, and still is, the best way to go if you want the best for music and HT…however this concept are now challenged by superb mini monitors and accurate subs like the above mentioned MJ ACOUSTICS models especially if your listening levels are normal to above normal…. not insane levels.

Let us look at Home Theater (HT) first: Quality is not that important but quantity is. Home theater is just effects in the higher frequencies in the front and rear speakers and lots of “distortion” (explosions) in the lower frequencies. That is why small speakers and a big enough sub woofer can go a long way in satisfying a HT customer. Also the brighter the speaker sound, the best it is for HT, warm soft sounding speakers are generally not good for HT.  Midrange frequencies are basically confined to the dialog (the voices) that happens on the TV. This is produced by a center speaker which is actually more important than the “effects” speakers. The main problem of most, if not all, of that “all in one” systems below the $1500 mark, is that their centre speaker can not handle the dialog well, it is too small. The other problem is the bass unit is a passive unit with a too small driver, less than 8”, which can physically not give enough impact in the bass. A good center speaker needs at least three drivers, two mid units (4” or more) and a tweeter. The size of the sub woofer is determined by the size of the room and the preferred listing level. In general a bigger room (more than 25 sqm) needs a bigger sub (10” driver and at least a 100w amp).  This is also true for higher listing levels. For HT quality of bass is not that important but quantity is.  An active sub with a 50—100w rms built-in amp and an 8’’ driver is my minimum recommendation. Small passive subs are definitely out.

For more information on Subs, read our Subwoofer FAQ

For music:  The Home theater arrangements are not ideal; in fact almost the opposite is needed. Only two speakers are needed, the front left and right speakers.  There is no need for a centre speaker and rears, but full range sound is needed from the front speakers, not just effects. That is why a small speaker (without a quality sub) cannot do justice to music. Also, warm, soft sounding speakers are best for long listening music sessions.

Unlike HT midrange frequency reproduction is very important for MUSIC because nearly 70% to 80 % of music is produced in this range, however it is the top and bottom end that mostly influence the clients choice…”too bright” , “ too boomy” are the buzz words often heard. Most musical speakers can be put into two categories:  smooth, soft sounding or sharp, bright sounding. This depends mainly on the type of tweeters they use. Soft sounding speakers use a soft dome tweeter and bright sounding speakers usually have a metal dome tweeter. Bass reproduction is very important and most of the times this influence the buyer the most (turn the bass control on your amp completely down and listen how the scale of the music disappears). To define good bass is very difficult and this is also the most difficult to get right in designing a speaker. More bass is also not always the answer. It can tire you out very quickly, especially when it drones, like a badly designed sub. Quality bass is more important, that is the bass must be tight and well defined (very difficult and costly to get it right with a sub). This is much more enjoyable in the long run.  At least two bass drivers is preferred, one to handle the mid and upper bass and the other to handle the lower end bass.  A subwoofer is not important if you have good floor standing speakers but it can add fullness to the sound when a lower listing level is preferred. It can be important to help your stand mount speakers if they lack a bit of deep bass but the most important aspect here is to go for a quality sub of the sealed enclosure type. In fact it is my experience recently that this last approach is the most cost effective way to get big quality sound.

Q: HOW MANY SPEAKERS DO I NEED?

A: The short answer to this question is: only two for studio recorded music and at least 5 and a SUB (the so called 5.1 system) for Home Theater and live recorded music.

One could get the impression from recent articles that all 5 (or more speakers) should be equal for digital home theater. If cost is no object, that is correct, however watch a movie with only the rear channel speakers playing, most of the time very little is going on. While the rear channels in digital sound have the same capability as the left, right, and center, movie producers will continue to use the surrounds essentially for effects, keeping the majority of the audio up front with the video. So you can go a long way with small rear speakers. It is important to note that the rear channels are only there for “defuse” the sound and not to “direct” the sound as in the case of the fronts. That is why the main speaker brands go for dipole speakers (a box with speakers on 3 sides of the box) at the rear to defuse the sound. However they need to be placed at least a meter above your head and in line with your sitting position for optimum effect. If this is not practical in a room the alterative is to go for an extra  speaker (or two!) at the rear (the so called 6.1 and 7.1 speakers setup. Digital surround has enhanced the quality of home theater, but for those of us who do not have unlimited budgets, it is better to apportion your speaker budget according to your musical preferences. “Home Theater Speakers” is a term for speakers which have been designed for extremely wide dynamic range and dispersion characteristics to enhance the home theater experience. Reproducing the dynamic range of HT, like gun shots and car crashes, etc. has pushed speaker development in directions which do not enhance music reproduction. What has been lost along the way is resolution. The typical high efficiency “home theater” speaker does a poor job with music played at moderate levels. Detail and inner resolution is usually lost by a speaker that is also capable of damaging your hearing. Don’t let a loud “action” movie demo influence your buying decision. These demos are impressive and are used to sell “home theater” speakers. “Action” scenes are exciting, but there is more to home theater sound than dynamic range. It is important to ask the salesperson to demonstrate the system at realistic levels that you would find comfortable for a two hour movie.

Q: ARE HI-FI SPEAKERS GOOD FOR HOME THEATRE?

A: In short yes, but high resolution and warm sound in home theater is not appreciated in a 5-10 minute demonstration. The typical home theater demonstration is short and full of crashes, explosions and other dramatic scenes. That is why bright, sharp sounding speakers with slam in the bass are better for HT.  What Hi FI speakers can do for home theater will take at least 20 minutes or more into a movie. The process is subtle. High resolution sound does not call attention to itself. You become more immersed in the movie and don’t realize until later that Hi FI speakers have a seductive quality on home theater that will increase over time. HI FI speakers generally go down lower in bass than HT speakers but the bass is slower and deeper than the case with HT speaker’s slam and impact.

Q: WHAT ARE THE BEST SPEAKERS FOR MY ROOM?

A: To answer that question requires some background information. You may have noticed similar specifications for the least-to-most expensive speakers. There is nothing in the specifications to justify the cost difference. More than any other performance parameter, what you are buying as you move up in the speaker line is resolution (or definition) in both top, mid and bass frequencies. Unlike video, there are no specifications in loudspeakers for resolution. You can hear it, but it is not easily defined.
To answer the question about the best speaker for your room, think of the problem in terms of tweeter, midrange and bass. Even in a small room a better tweeter would sound better. The same argument goes for the midrange. The bass is the only real sonic issue in your room. Speakers are “voiced” by the engineers on set assumptions. Most consumers will buy a bigger speaker for larger rooms because their bass response is “voiced” accordingly.  For a small room this speaker might produce too much bass. Do you buy less resolution with a lower priced speaker so that you can get less bass output? That’s not an attractive alternative.   Fortunately, bass can be eliminated easier than it can be produced. There are some electronic solutions (such as bi-amplification) for a speaker in a small room that is voiced for a large room. The best solution is to go for a very well designed small stand mount speaker and a quality sub of the sealed enclosure type. This approach has become very popular in resent years and is one of my favorite ways to tackle a difficult room.  Bass extension works against good sound quality in small rooms or rooms with poor dimensional ratios. Any volume of air in an enclosed space will reinforce certain frequencies when that air is excited.  This reinforcement is called resonance, and the frequencies at which the resonances occur are the room’s resonance modes. The frequency of a resonance mode is determined by the distances between the room’s walls. The greater the distance, the lower the resonance frequency will be. (The fundamental resonance is supported between two walls at a frequency whose half wavelength equals the distance between the two walls. Another resonance mode occurs at one wavelength, one and a half wavelengths, and so one at every multiple of half a wavelength. The fundamental resonance mode is 1130/2D, where 1130 is the speed of sound (ft/sec) in air at “room temperature and D is the distance between two walls. So for a 20′ room the fundamental resonance will be at 28.25Hz, with further modes at 56.5Hz, 84.75, 113Hz, and so on. This is similar to when you blow into a bottle, you are not producing the pitch you hear; the bottle’s resonant modes are. You are simply exciting the air in the enclosed space nearly randomly; the bottle reinforces certain frequencies that you hear as a pitch. Similarly, a loudspeaker exciting the air in a listening room causes the room to reinforce certain low frequencies. The result is smeared and boomy bass.

The larger the room, the lower the room’s fundamental resonance and thus the more closely spaced and dense the resonance modes are. Closely spaced resonance modes are a good thing; if the resonances approximate a continuum; individual resonances are less likely to be audible. Conversely, a small room’s resonance modes are spread out more widely over the band. With large gaps between resonant frequencies, those resonant frequencies are rendered much more audible. That’s one reason why it’s hard to get good-sounding bass in a small room.

Now some of that is getting pretty technical I know, if you have any questions just get in touch.

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What Interconnects and Cables do I need?

March 30th, 2009 Brendan No comments

Interconnects:
This is a much abused issue with a lot of misconceptions and a lot of money wasted on so called miracle solutions that interconnects and cables can make. Remember better interconnects and cables can not improve any component’s sound, they can only have less influence on the total sound of the system. So if you do not hear any difference in the sound with different interconnects and cables, do not spend more money on them.

Good interconnects are in my view the most important cable in your system. Most systems can benefit by upgrading from the standard leads that come with your equipment.  Some experts suggest spending 10% of the system price on interconnects.  I would generally look at spending 10% of the source equipment on interconnects. For example, if your CD player cost $1000 then spend around $100 on an interconnect. Having said that the Wireworld Solstice is a silver interconnect for a great price, I would recommend this cable for all but the most high-end systems.

Digital Cable:

In terms of video cabling, most people are opting for HDMI cables, but that doesn’t neccessarily make it the best. When choosing an HDMI cable make sure it is certified to handle a FULL HD 1080p signal. All the Wireworld HDMI cables that we stock carry 1080p signals over long lengths. Lengths of greater than 5m is where other HDMI cable start to drop the signal but the Wireworld cables have proven performance for long runs and are a favourite for custom installations. For digital sound connections I prefer co-ax instead of HDMI, it has less dither problems because they do not need handshaking with components, Co-ax cables use proven technology and it keeps the video and audio signals completely separate.  It is best to keep your cables as short as possible, the longer the cable, the more likely it is to pick up extraneous noise.

Speaker Cable
On the issue of speaker cables you need to consider how long your cables need to be. Shorter is always better but sometimes this is unavoidable. As a starting point I recommend our cheapest cable the Wireworld Stream for most systems – it is a solid core Oxygen Free Copper design (not multi-strand) and it is a stand out performer! Don’t be fooled by speaker cables with huge thick shielding, it is this shielding itself that can have negative effects on the sonics of the cable. Another thing to consider is the quality of the cable inside your speakers, it is a waste of money to spend a huge amount of money on thick cables if the cables used inside your speakers are thin cheap wire. Quality speakers use quality cables inside and then it make sense to try and match that quality level. The same argument goes for speaker terminal connections. The simplest and sometimes the best way is to just push the bare wire through the speaker’s binding post hole and tighten it. However, if you choose to bi-wire your speakers, this sometimes isn’t practical. Also, there is no need for special expensive gold plated plugs if your speaker manufacture used cheap zinc clips inside the speaker to connect the connecting posts to the crossover network! However plugs are very convenient for switching between speakers etc. In general twisted speaker cables are the best to reduce induction noise effects. The better quality the speakers the better quality speaker cables can be used.

In terms of bi-wiring, the degree of effectiveness depends on the speakers and their cross over units within them. Some very well regarded manufacturers (such as Dynaudio) do not even provide the ability for bi-wiring. Bi-wiring is something that we recommend enthusiasts to experiment with, but it will be small differences in the sound that you notice, not day and night comparisons. Single wiring is suitable for most applications.

Power Cables & Conditioners:
 
Roughly the same argument can be used here. There is a new trend to push this issue at huge cost to the clients to achieve miracle improvements. However respectable amplifier manufacturers spend huge amount of money on research in designing their power supplies to be insensitive to noise and problems in the power supply. Only if this goes outside their reasonable stable assumptions, like a huge power spike or drop in the supply then you can have problems. I normally just recommend a good spike and surge protector plug as essential to keep your equipment save and sound. Ironically, it is the cheap equipment that needs these expensive power conditioners the most and these clients can not afford them! If you want the best power signal the Wireworld Series power cables have had a lot of research into them and are designed to filter out unwanted mains noise, more expensive models are available but we only list the entry level model on our site as we believe this has 95% of the peroformance of the more expensive models.

Finally, my recommendation to all these miracle improvements is to try them first and if you can hear a difference only then consider buying one. If their price is more than an upgrade to a better speaker, rather go for the better speakers this is still the component that shapes the sound the most!

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Which is the most important: Source, Amp or Speakers?

March 30th, 2009 Tiens No comments

There has been a lot of talk about this subject that has lead to various opinions. The general opinion is that the so called “garbage in, garbage out” concept applies – the source is the most important, then the amp and then speakers.

To me it is the component that influences the sound the most and therefore I believe speakers are the most important in your choice, followed by a suitable amp that can drive the speakers and then the source components. However a balanced approach must be followed. For instance it does not make any sense to buy a cheap CD player and a very expensive speaker set or even worse, a very expensive CD player and a cheap speaker set.

The overall result is determined by the weakest link in the system. You will find that by changing your CD player to a more expensive one will make small improvements in your sound, but changing speakers will make a huge difference. The higher you go up the ladder in quality of a speaker then everything in front of them will start to make a difference, amplifiers, CD players and even cables. Note: Better cables cannot improve any component’s sound they can only have less influence on the total sound of the system. So if you do not hear any difference in the sound with different cables do not spend more money on them.

If you got money to burn rather spend it on better speakers.

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Subwoofer FAQ’s, answered

March 9th, 2009 Tiens 6 comments

Q. What Sub should I buy for music and/or home theatre?

A     There is no single answer to this question.
First of all, you must decide if your main interest is in music or home theater or both. Your budget is the next important factor and then follows the size of your room. Lastly but sometimes very important is the aesthetics factor or the so called “WAF” factor (Wife acceptance factor)

The simple key to a good sub is: the bigger the driver the better and the quality go hand in hand with the weight of the sub.  The basic physics of bass sound is to move air at low frequencies. The more air you want to move (for good bass) the bigger the driver you need. To design a good small sub is a very challenging engineering job and a hot topic nowadays. Velodyne are the most famous for their small subs but they are generally very expensive. Luckily the new kid on the block, M.J. Acoustics, have now changed that, they are super value for money.

NOTE: In choosing a sub for music and/or home theater there are a few things to keep in mind.
For home theater (HT), quality is not that important but quantity is. Home theater is just dialog, effects and lots of “distortion” in the lower frequencies. That is why a big sub woofer is best here. Bass reflex type what their power output advantage over a sealed enclosure sub is the answer if you are a movie fanatic.
In fact the main problem of most, if not all, of that “all in one” systems below the $1500 mark is that their  bass unit is a passive unit with a too small driver, less than 8” which can physically not give enough impact in the bass.  The size of the sub woofer you need is determined by the size of the room and your preferred listing level. In general a bigger room (more than 25 sqm) needs a bigger sub (10” driver and at least a 100w amp) and this is also true for higher listing levels.  An active sub with a 100w rms built-in amp and an 8’’ driver is my minimum recommendation. Small passive subs are definitely out.
For music, a big sub is not needed in fact a well designed small sub with accurate bass is much more important. Bass reproduction for music is very important and most of the times this influence the buyer the most (turn the bass control on your amp completely down and listen how the scale of the music disappears). However “correct” bass is much more important than “lots” of bass. To define correct bass is very difficult and this is also the most difficult to get right in designing a speaker. More bass is also not always the answer. It can tire you out very quickly, especially when it drones. Quality bass is much more important, that is the bass must be tight, well defined and must have bass weight. This is much more enjoyable in the long run. The best music subs are from the sealed enclosure type (not bass reflex). Sealed subs generally go lower and have less distortion than bass reflex subs. Also a subwoofer is important to add fullness to the sound when a lower listing level is preferred to compensate for the human’s ear’s naturally lack of detecting bass at low volumes.

Basically you get 3 types of subs:
1: Using a 5″ or 6″ bass driver inside a box and the bass comes out of a port. Remember when you were a kid you talked into a tube to lower your voice. Well that is the same principle used here. This type is used by the mass market “all in one sub/sat sets” from Sony, Panasonic, Pioneer, JVC, Bose etc. because it’s cheap to make, you only need cheap small drivers that do not need to move a lot of air to fake “bass” sounds. They are the worst sounding subs with a “hollow, drooney, tube like” bass sound. Also, by hiding the driver inside the cabinet they can get away with low cost drivers made of poor quality materials.

2: A much better why is to use a proper 10″,12″ or 15”driver and let it fires into free air and to increase bass “volume” a bass port is also used (bass reflex). However you introduces distortion, typically 10% to 20%. That is OK for Home theater but not ideal for music.

3: The best subs use a 10″, 12″ or 15” driver in a SEALED enclosure to minimize distortion to about 1% (you sacrifice volume a bit). This is an ideal sub for both music and Home theatre. This is expensive to make because the sub’s amp needs to be at least 3 x bigger to move the driver against the trapped air inside the sealed box.

The industry’s real subs from PARADIGM, JAMO and VELODYNE use this last concept at huge cost but now MJ ACOUSTICS has come up with a range of affordable subs using the same concept. For the first time any enthusiast can now afford to better his speakers sound by adding one of these subs without breaking the bank. Also it will keep your other half happy it’s small and beautifully finished in real wood. There are two other important factors that I like about MJ ACOUSTICS subs:
•    Down firing driver:  thus making use of nature’s gravitational force to help pull the driver down on the start and dampened the back movement, ideal for a fast tight bass with out overhang. It also remove the problem to turn  your big driver (on front firing subs) every year at 180 degrees to compensate for the dragging stressing  force on the driver’s rubber surround and voice coil.  Its also fires at right angles to the main speakers drivers making correct phasing and placement in the room less critical.

•    Remote control on some models to control all the main settings on the sub. Note not all CD’s and DVD’s are recorded equal…it depends on the likes of the recording engineer…his personal choice…with a remote you can have your own choice as well…once you used it,  you can never be without it.

Q. What is the best sub for my room?

A.      To answer that question requires some background information. You may have noticed similar specifications for the less expensive subs. There is very little in the specifications to justify the cost difference. More than any other performance parameter, what you are buying as you move up in the sub line is power and size and thus more bass volume for HT and bass resolution for music. Unlike video, there are no specifications in subs for resolution. You can hear it, but it is not easily defined. Also remember, bass reproduction is heavily dependent on your room acoustics like soft furnishes or hard furnishes. Soft furnishes and soft carpets absorb a lot of bass whereas hard furnishes and wooden floors reflect bass and can make the bass booming and droning. Also you have to think of the problem in terms of the size of the sub. Even in a small room a bigger sub would sound better, you just have to turn it down slightly, the less volume the better. Fortunately, bass can be eliminated easier than it can be produced. The best solution is to go for a very well designed sub of type 3.

Q. How much power must my sub deliver?

A.     The more the better but that also pushes up the cost.  Individual listening levels vary so greatly that a definitive answer is impossible. At least 100w (RMS) is the norm but this is not always a clear cut because it depends on how thick (strong) the driver’s rubber surrounds are, some needs about 1000 watts just to start moving them. Also remember that subwoofers that move a lot of air and are impressive in a home theater demonstration are usually sloppy and become tiresome during extended music listening. If you are impressed with a home theater demo of a sub, wait a bit. The best subwoofers don’t call attention to themselves but provide the most enjoyment over the long haul.

A FEW TIPS
Hooking up your sub:
There are a few things to remember when hooking up your sub and speakers. Never switch on your amp until everything is finally hooked up. Never unplug or plug in any thing with your amp on, always switch it off first. The amp goes through a protection phase when switched on and will only switch the speaker on after everything is found to be safe. When changing things after this, there is no way the amp can tell if something is wrong or not. There are two ways to connect a sub: 1 by connecting your pre amp output (or “sub out” on your HT receiver) to the low level (line level) input on your sub via a coaxial RCA cable. This is the best way for HT. 2 By connecting your speaker terminals to the high level input (speaker terminals) on the sub via normal speaker wire or best via a NEUTRIK connector like MJ ACOUSTICS subs. This is the best for music because your sub then sees the same signal as your speakers and will work then together with your speakers to enhance the bass.

Sub Placement:
Sub placement in your room is critical, especially for good bass reproduction. To understand the basics of sub placement, it’s important to remember that the lower the frequency, the less directional the sound becomes, until you get to the point where the sound is Omni directional (the point at which the wavelength is longer than the distance between your ears – usually below 120 Hz). In theory the subwoofer can be placed anywhere in the room but for optimal music reproduction the sub should be close to the middle of the front speakers. That is in most cases not practical because your equipment rack is in the way…so start off in the next best location, the front corner of the room.  As the sub gets closer to the walls, the bass will reflect off the walls and can be
reenforced, this tends to give a “stronger” bass (more volume) but the bass become more boomier (“sloppier”) or less controlled also known as less defined. As the sub moves further away from the wall, the bass will “tighten” although this will diminish its bass volume. The secret is to move the box in and out from the wall until the best compromise is achieved. In general also place the sub at a slightly larger distance from the back wall than from the side wall…we talking a few inches here.

Subwoofer settings:
It’s a difficult process trying to get a subwoofer to integrate with the main speakers especially when it comes to music reproduction. Trial and error is the best way to tackle this problem. A sub with remote control on all its setup functions is a great help here (like M.J. ACOUSTICS). Most surround sound receivers give the option of sending the bass information to the main speakers or the subwoofer or both. I’ve found that, if your main speaker is a floor standing speaker then the best result and least distortion is when the setting is on “both” thus sending the bass signal to both the sub and the front speakers.  As a rule of thumb for the initial set up, place the phase switch (if available) at zero, the volume level to around 50% and the crossover to around 20% off the lowest setting.  Tweak the settings from there, until it sounds good to your ears, bass tightness is far more important than bass volume.
Tweaking will be different for each room and each placement position.  A note on my personal preference is to have my Sub’s roll off freq much lower for music than for movies typically at 9 o’clock for music and 3 o’clock for movies. The fact is that there are much more info on movie tracks in the range 60Hz to 150 Hz than below 60 Hz contrary to the general believe and music has a lot of information below 60hz. A remote control with different storing settings is a great advantage here, like some MJ ACOUSTICS subs.

Click here to view our subs we recommend for music

Click here to view our entire subwoofer range

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Why Dipole Rear Speakers are Better

February 19th, 2009 Brendan No comments

Compare the rear sound field in ILLUSTRATION A fig 2 (directional speakers) to fig 3 using 2 dipole speakers and fig 4 using 3 dipoles and fig 5 using 5 dipoles. It can be clearly seen that the rear sound field are much better produced by dipoles. If this is not practical in a room the alternative is to go for an extra center speaker (or two!) at the rear (See ILLUSTRATION B ) the so called 6.1 and 7.1 speakers’ setups.


ILLUSTRATION A

illustration-a


Movie theaters use multiple arrays of surround speakers to keep viewers from being distracted by the sound of any single one (Fig. 1).

Conventional forward-radiating speakers cannot reproduce movie theater surround sound in your home. If they are loud enough for their sound to blend with the front speakers they draw attention to themselves. Turn them down so they don’t distract you and they won’t blend with the fronts so they are generally not suitable for surround speakers. They tend to give you the discreet “ping’”- “ pong “ effect (see shaded area in fig 2) instead of “filling” the surround like dipole speakers ( see the shaded area in Fig. 3). The more dipole surrounds you add the better the filling of the surround field. (Figs 4 & 5).

Like movie theater surround speakers, dipole surround speakers envelop you in sound without drawing your attention away from the movie you’re watching. They add size and dimension to the sound stage and ensure a seamless transition when sound and effects move from the front and center to side and rear speakers.

They’re just as important for life recorded on stage (multichannel music). Because of their ability to create a large non-localized sound field, they contribute multidimensional realism to the reproduction of the original recording’s acoustic space.

The diffuse sound of dipole surround speakers turns your listening into a magical experience—they put the “theater” in home theater and make music sound “live”!


ILLUSTRATION B

illustration-b


If dipole surrounds are not practical in your room (for instance a window is in the way) then the alternative is to go for an extra center speaker (or two!) at the rear (the so called 6.1 and 7.1 speakers setup). See illustration B fig 1.

The minimum requirement is 5 speakers as shown in illustration B fig 2. but sadly this is not enough. This is still the most popular way but saving cost must be your only reason.

My minimum suggestion (if cost and room layout is an issue) is to go for a 5.1 system but with two rear dipoles even if you have to put them closer to the rear walls. (See illustration B fig 3).


POSITIONING

Dipole speakers need to be placed at least a meter above your head and in line with your sitting position for optimum effect. Alternatively on the back wall but ideally high up (1 m above your listening position. See fig below:

clip_image036

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